Hemmer



Aug. 21, 1934. c. WMUELLER HEMMER Filed NOV. 18, 1932 ELE (IttornegPatented Aug. 21, 1934 PATENT caries 1,971,118;` 4 HEMMER Charles W.Mueller, St.V

Lewis Invisible Louis, Mo., assigner to Stitch Machine Company,

St. Louis, Mo., acorporation of Maine Application November 18, 1932,Serial No. 643,284

7 Claims.

This invention relates to new and useful improvements in hemmersgenerally, although more particularly to a hemmer of the scroll and conetype for forming an extremely narrow hem.

` Considerable diinculty has heretofore been experienced with conehemmers due to the clogging of the delivery end of the hemmer whenhemming fabrics of a weight greater than the hemmer was originallyintended to receive, or in passing seamed fabrics through the hemmer.

The principal object of the present invention is therefore to provide acone hemmer with an expansible nose or delivery end whereby fabrics ofdifferent weights as Well as seamed fabrics may be readily foldedwithout clogging the hemmer.

Another object of the invention lies in the provision of an adjustableedge guide for the hemmer whereby a predetermined amount of fabric `'maybe constantly turned in to form the hem.

With these and other objects in view which will more fully appear, thenature of the invention will be more clearly understood by following thedescription, the appended claims, and the several views illustrated inthe accompanying drawlng.

In the drawing:-

Figure 1 is a top plan view of my invention showing a fabric having across-seam being passed therethrough,

Figure 2 is a bottom plan view of the hemmer,

Figure 3 is a front elevation of the hemmer,

Figure 4 is a rear elevation of the hemmer,

Figure 5 is a side View of the hemmer,

Figure 6 is a perspective view of the edge guide,

Figure 7 is an enlarged and somewhat diagrammatic cross section of aseamed hem folded by my invention,

Figure 8 is a bottom plan view of the hemmer nose with the downwardlyexpansible portion removed, and

Figure 9 is a perspective view of the downwardly expansible portion ofthe hemmer.

Like reference numerals designate corresponding parts throughout theseveral figures of the drawing.

Referring to the accompanying drawing, the hemmer A includes a baseplate 5 to which is secured an attaching arm 6. The base plate 5 isturned at one edge to form a coniform scroll a having a mouth b and arestricted nose c. A frusto-conical core d which is centrally disposedwithin the scroll, extends inwardly from the mouth b and terminatesshort of the nose c. The core d is supported by a guide flange 7 whichis disposed above the base plate 5 and is secured to the edge of thescroll. The hemmer thus far described is of the conventional form.Inftheuse of hemmers of this type, considerable diiliculty has been'experienced when attempting to fold extremely narrow hems owing to thefolded fabric crowding or cloggingthe small nose particularly when aheavy fabric or a fabric witha cross seam is being folded. Y.

I have therefore provided a hemmer with an expansible nose which willrelieve such clogging and allow the formation of extremely narrow hemsregardless of the fact that a heavier fabric or a cross seamed `fabricis employed'.

To this end, thescroll a is formed on its upper side with a longitudinalslit 8 which extends from the delivery end of the nose c toward themouth b, but terminates short of said mouth. The lower part of the noseis cut away to form a transverse edge 9 and a'longitudinal edge 10, andthe scroll is formed with a longitudinal slit 11 which is alined withthe longitudinal edge 10. Thus between the longitudinal edge 10 and theslit 8, the nose is formed into an upwardly expansible tongue 12 whichis located above the cut away portion. A downwardly expansible noseportion 13, which fits the cut away portion, is provided with anattaching spring arm 14 secured by solder to the under face of the base5. It will thus be observed that I have formed the nose into upwardlyand downwardly or oppositely disposed expansible portions or tongueswhich will permit the free passage of an extremely narrow hem 15 in afabric 16 which may be either light or heavy or which may or may not beformed with a cross seam 17.

Attached to the mouth end of the core d is an edge guide X whichincludes an upright arm 18, a rearwardly extending arm 19 whichterminates in a ngerpiece 20, and a split attaching ring 21 at the lowerend of the upright arm 18. An attached screw 22 passes through the splitring 21 and is threadably engaged in the mouth end of the core d. One ofthe arms of the split ring 21 is bent outwardly to form a resultantspring or frictional connection between the core and the screw head,whereby the guide may be readily adjusted about the screw andfrictionally retained in any position of adjustment. The arm 18 extendsupwardly above the top of the scroll and serves as an edge guide for thefabric to maintain a uniform margin to be inturned, and by having thearm 19 extend rearwardly and overlap the scroll, the edge of the fabricis held from working in between the arm 18 and the scroll. The hem thusformed is l Iii" secured to the body fabric by a line of blind stitchesindicated diagrammatically at 23 in Figure "1.

I claim:-

1. A hemmer including a coniform edge turning scroll having an entrantmouth and a restricted outlet nose, the nose including an upper portionhaving a longitudinally extending slot extending through the outlet endof the nose, and a downwardly expansible portion.

2. A hemmer including a coniform edge turning scroll having an entrantmouth, a restricted outlet nose, and an enclosed core terminating shortof the delivery end of the outlet nose, said nose including a downwardlyexpansible portion overlapping the delivery end of the core and formingthe lower part of the delivery end of the nose.

3. A hemmer including a coniform edge turning scroll having an entrantmouth, a restricted outlet nose, an enclosed core terminating short ofthe delivery end of the outlet nose, and an edge-guide seouredto theentrant end of the core and extending radially and outwardly beyond thescroll.

4. A hemmer including a coniorm edge turning scroll having an entrantmouth, a restricted outlet nose, an enclosed core terminating short ofthe delivery end of the outlet nose, and an edgeguide adjustably securedto the entrant end of the core and extending radially and outwardlybeyond the scroll, the end of the guide extending over the scroll andserving as a hand-piece for adjusting the guide.

5. A hemmer including a coniform edge turning scroll having an entrantmouth, a restricted outlet nose, an enclosed core terminating short ofthe delivery end of the outlet nose, and an edge-guide pivotally mountedon the entrant end of the core and extending radially and outwardlybeyond the scroll.

V 6. A hemmer including a coniform edge turning scroll having an entrantmouth, a restricted outlet nose, an enclosed core terminating short ofthe delivery end of the outlet nose, and an edge-guide pivotally mountedon the entrant end of the core Yand extending outwardly beyond thescroll, said guide being attached to the core through the rnedium of aspring loop and a screw passing through the loop into the core.

'7. A hemmer including a ooniforrn edge turning scroll having an entrantmouth and a restricted outlet nose, said nose being formed withlongitudinal slits forming therebetween an outwardly yieldable tongue,said nose being also formed opposite said tongue with a cut awayportion, and an outwardly yieldable nose section iitting said cut awayportion.

CHARLES W. MUELLER..

